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有了这篇攻略,就可以畅游这座非洲大都市了

Adam Erace 2018年07月28日

中国游客对于开普敦可能还不太熟悉,本文带你走进这个充满活力的非洲大都市。

开普敦拥有顶级红酒、绝美沙滩、厚重的历史,在参观这个充满活力的非洲大都市时,如何能尽览这一切?我们来到了坐落在非洲大陆最大的现代艺术博物馆上面的Silo酒店,听礼宾部的胡恩·金为你制定开普敦旅游攻略。

新兴街区:伍德斯托克曾经是工厂密集的工业区,但现在街头可以看到很多室内设计、艺术设计、精酿啤酒以及像SMAC和Whatiftheworld一类的现代画廊。在伍德斯托克复兴的起源地Old Biscuit Mill,有一个著名的周六市场。我们把这称为开普敦的布鲁克林。

FIRST-CLASS WINES, beautiful beaches, powerful history—how do you take it all in when visiting one of Africa’s most vibrant and cosmopolitan cities? At the Silo, a new hotel perched atop the continent’s largest modern-art museum, concierge Hoon Kim has a plan for your Cape Town trip.

Emerging neighborhood: Woodstock used to be quite industrial, with lots of factories, but it has become an area filled with interior designers, graphic artists, artisanal breweries, and contemporary galleries like SMAC and Whatiftheworld. There’s a famous Saturday market at the Old Biscuit Mill, which started Woodstock’s renaissance a few years back. We call it the Brooklyn of Cape Town.

伍德斯托克的每周市场。Per-Anders Pettersson—Corbis/Getty Images

最佳新餐厅:在非常酷的Janse & Co.,主厨阿诺·扬瑟·范伦斯堡只烹制当地食物。餐厅食物颇具实验性和创意,我最近吃过芝士杏仁烤韭葱,十分美味,但这却并非主打精致餐饮。餐厅布局简单,暗色的墙面,餐桌上摆着烛台。餐厅的小院棒极了,有时我只是过去喝一杯不错的冰酒。

Best new restaurant: At the very cool Janse & Co., chef Arno Janse van Rensburg is all about local produce. The food is experimental and creative—I recently had a sensational grilled leek dish with cream cheese and almonds—but it’s not fine dining. The restaurant is very simple, with dark walls and candles on the tables. There’s a wonderful courtyard, too; sometimes I go there just for a nice glass of chilled wine.

Janse & Co.'s的主厨阿诺·扬瑟·范伦斯堡只提供当地食物。Courtesy of Jessamy Hindle

逃离城市:法兰舒克(Franschhoek)在南非荷兰语里的意思是“法国角”,离开普敦一小时的距离,以南非美食之都出名。这是胡诺格派教徒于1600年首次定居的地方,拥有全国最好的餐厅和酒庄。在这个古色古香的小镇里,每一个元素都充满法式风情,在南非中部能看到这样的景致着实奇怪又让人着迷。Haute Cabrière是其中一家家庭经营的精品酒庄。

Urban escape: Franschhoek—Afrikaans for “French corner”—is about an hour from Cape Town and is known as the culinary capital of South Africa. It’s where the Huguenots first settled around 1600 and today is home to some of the country’s best restaurants and wine estates. Everything in this quaint town has a French feel, which is really weird and wonderful in the middle of South Africa. Haute Cabrière is a family owned boutique wine estate here.

位于南非美酒之乡法兰舒克的Haute Cabriere葡萄园的餐厅露台。Blaine Harrington III—Getty Images

海滩游憩:因为南极冰山融化,环绕开普敦的南大西洋夏天甚至凉过冬天。这儿的大部分人都更钟爱日光浴而非游泳,冲浪当然也备受欢迎。坎普斯湾和克利夫顿海滩都是热门冲浪点,但我更偏爱南部海岸的梅森堡海滩,这里沙滩细软,水温宜人。

当地人的秘密:Reverie Social Table是当地人引以为豪的一家从农场到餐桌式的餐厅,坐落在十分有特色的天文台地区。主厨朱莉娅·哈廷年轻有事业心,我从未见过有人比她对当地产品和酒更有热情。她依据轮换的酒单设计了一份五道菜的菜单。餐厅只有一条长桌,最多能容纳大概12个人,所以你得和陌生人一起就餐。

Beach break: Because of melting icebergs from the South Pole, the South Atlantic Ocean surrounding Cape Town is actually colder in the summer than in the winter. Most people here prefer suntanning to swimming, but surfing is definitely very popular. Camps Bay and Clifton Beach are famous surf beaches, but I like Muizenberg Beach on the southern coast for its sand and milder water temperatures.

Locals’ secret: Reverie Social Table is a proudly South African farm-to-table eatery located in the quirky Observatory neighborhood. The chef, Julia Hattingh, is young and ambitious; I’ve never seen anyone as passionate about local produce and wine. She creates the five-course menu around a rotating wine selection. It’s served at a long table that accommodates maybe 12 people max, so you have to like sitting with strangers.

在Reverie Social Table餐厅,客人需共享一张餐桌,因而打造了终极就餐体验。Courtesy of Adrian Beck

必购清单:南非因皮制品出名,尤其是鸵鸟皮。Cape Cobra手工皮具是一家精品店,店主谢弗家族手工制作店内的每一件商品,无论是皮带还是卡包,或是精美的手提包,用的都是高品质的当地皮料。

Must-have souvenir: South Africa is famous for leather goods, especially ones made from ostrich. Cape Cobra Leathercraft is a boutique whose owners, the Schafer family, make everything by hand, from belts to credit card holders to fabulous handbags, using very high-quality local leather.

家庭精品店Cape Cobra手工皮具店出售当地的手工皮制品。Courtesy of Cape Cobra Leathercraft

雷区:罗宾岛。虽然纳尔逊·曼德拉曾被囚此地,但游览罗宾岛由政府管理,并非最佳选择。想要了解种族隔离时期的惨痛历史,可以去参观第六区博物馆。

10000美金一日游

我们请金给我们定制一个特别的开普敦一日游:这一天从乘坐直升机游览开普半岛的壮丽风光开始,一览水滨、桌山、好望角的惊艳景致。客人回城后,迈巴赫会载着他们前往酒乡中心的Chef’s Warehouse Beau Constantia享用西班牙风味午餐。饭后返回开普敦,登上the Only One号游艇出海,在夕阳下开启奢华旅程,在享受南非香槟和精致点心的同时,可以下海游个泳,游艇还会带他们前往桌湾兜兜风。最后,在Silo酒店屋顶的繁星下做一个全身按摩,放松身心,结束这一天的旅程。(财富中文网)

Things to avoid: Tours of Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned, are government regulated and not the best run. To learn about the painful memories of the apartheid era, try the District Six Museum instead.

The $10,000 Day

We asked Kim to plan us a special, singular day in Cape Town: The day would begin with a dramatic, scenic helicopter trip over the Cape Peninsula, affording jaw-dropping views of the waterfront, Table Mountain, and the Cape of Good Hope. Upon the guests’ return to the city, we’d whisk them off in a Maybach limousine for a tapas lunch at Chef’s Warehouse Beau Constantia in the heart of wine country. After lunch, guests would return to Cape Town for a luxurious sunset yacht excursion aboard the Only One, where, in between sips of South African bubbly and bites of gourmet canapés, they could go for a swim before zipping out for a spin around Table Bay. And to conclude the day: a relaxing full-body massage under the stars on the rooftop of the Silo hotel.

住客在Silo酒店顶层的无限泳池尽情享受。Courtesy of the Silo Hotel

本文的另一版本发表在《财富》杂志2018年8月1日刊,题目为《南非的母亲城》。

译者:Agatha

A version of this article appears in the August 1, 2018 issue of Fortune with the headline “South Africa’s Mother City.”

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